Our Second Day in Paris!

Up this morning to another gray day … I think that because we’re SOOOO used to sunshine in Tucson, that these really gray days are so noticeable!  However … it’s not raining, so for this and our multitude of other blessings, we definitely give thanks!

 

Not too bad a night of sleep, although I did get some foot/leg cramps which required a bit of walking around during the night.  Have the Arnica with me, though (thank you so much, Anne!) and that helped quite a bit! 

 

R was up sometime around 7 he tells me, and I got up about 8, which for me makes for a very good night!  R showered and I bathed in our lovely bathtub (nice to have a good soak!) and we went down to the -1 level for breakfast about 9:15 am.  Breakfast was lovely!  Some scrambled eggs, along with cold cuts and cheeses as well as fresh fruits and lots of breads and rolls.  Lovely raspberry jam!

 

Back upstairs and finally out about 10:45 and heading to the Musee Marmottan (Monet) where we haven’t been in quite a few years.  It’s actually a small Parisian house museum – one of many of its kind in Paris, but this one is devoted primarily to the paintings and collection of Claude Monet, our favorite impressionist painter.  

 

Side view of St. Sulpice from the bus

National Assembly 

Les Invalides (Bonaparte's resting place)

Tour Eiffel with Flame of Liberty at bottom

Liked the building...

Part of the Trocadero

The house started as the hunting lodge of Francois Christophe Kellermann, third Duke of Valmy.  It was eventually restored by Paul Marmottan, and bequeathed to the Academie des Beaux-Arts along with all his collections.  The museum has since then become enriched by many other bequests and has become a beacon in the field of Impressionism – our favorite era of painting.  And, while the entire house is filled with absolutely stunning furniture, decoration and artwork, the real magic – for us at least – is in the Monet collection in the basement, and the Berthe Morrisot Collection on the first floor.

 

To get there, though, we first had to re-validate our Decouvert cards for the day, which was easily done around the corner at the Luxembourg RER station.  From there, we hopped on the first 21 bus that came along, and took it to Cluny, just two stops down the hill.

 

From there we were a bit stymied, as the 63 bus stop was there, but going in the wrong direction, as Saint-Germain is a one-way street – very common in Paris!  Decided that rather than try to search for the opposite directional street, we would just take the 63 “in hand” as it were until we could get off and go in the other direction.  (Rather like taking an elevator up to go down!). As it turned out, we took it to Paris 6-Universite, which is perfect, as that is exactly the bus and stop that we will need to take tomorrow morning for the Institut of the Arab World, for the two exhibitions that we will be seeing there, so it worked out extremely well!

 

Hopped on the 63 going in the opposite direction (that is, west) very easily, and were quickly going on our way!  Took about 40 minutes to get completely across town to Porte de la Muette.  Got off, and find it’s next to the Jardin Ranelagh, which, even in the fall is quite lovely!  And actually, the entire neighborhood is exceptional!  Beautiful buildings all around!  About a 6 minute walk to the museum, and even without tickets (it being Friday) it wasn’t at all crowded, which was great!  

 

One of the main rooms in Musee Marmottan

Painting by Sisley

Monet's water lilies (sideways; sorry!)

Rouen Cathedral

We had a very nice look around – lovely to be there again, as it has been some years since our last visit – but the Monet collection in the basement is really superb!  Saw some old friends and very much enjoyed our visit!

Grand Palais with Seine in foreground

Pont Alexander III bridge

Back via the 63 bus and, as we were changing to the 27 at Cluny, we discussed what to do about food the remainder of the day … always important consideration in our household, believe me!  Decided as it was 2 pm, and we are due at the Louvre at 5:30 pm, we would “just get something light” at the corner bistro – Café Royer Collard.  Well … try getting something light … R ordered their Tarte Monsieur and I had another of their Tartes– Wow!  FABULOUS!  R’s was basically a Croque Monsieur – grilled cheese on toasted bread with a green salad with French mustard dressing.  Yummy!  My tarte was another sandwich – open faced, grilled bread with “natural” ham – tasted like Serrano – with pesto on top – OMG, it was fabulous!  Also had green salad.  Truly wished I could have eaten the entire thing, although I managed pretty well!  We both enjoyed glasses of St. Emilion wine, and of course a large bottle of water.

 

R's lunch

My lunch!

Back to the hotel now – I’ll turn the computer over to R to work and hope to get a nap before we’re out at 5 to head to the Louvre!

 

So, as I am prone to say, more later!

m

xxx

 

Hello again!  Or, Bonjour encore une fois!

 

I got a nice nap for almost an hour, and up about 4:45 pm.  As it turned out, R declined the opportunity to go to the Louvre, preferring to work on the Palomar schedule.  That being the case, I loaded up the camera and headed out for my 5:30 reservation.  And talk about lucky!  I took the 27 bus to the Louvre, and then entered through the Carousel.  Downstairs and to the Louvre “back entry” line – but only for those who already have tickets.  (Learned that the hard way on our last visit to Paris…). I walked right into the line and was through security in about 5 minutes.  Picked up a map, checked my coat and camera bag into the do-it-yourself cloak room, and was on my way!  Up through the Sully entrance, and it wasn’t far to “my kinda stuff” – ancient near east.  

 

Truly, I can promise that there will be absolutely NO Mona Lisa, Winged Victory or Venus di Milo discussed here.  Seen them all before and while the Louvre is one of our favorite museums, we come totally for the Near Eastern artifacts … which you will probably see plenty of once R goes through the photos.  Found them fairly easily (helps to start in the right place…) and I had some rooms completely to myself! 

 

I truly do love visiting old friends, like Gudea and the Victory stele and the law code of Hammurabi.  But this visit did include quite a bit of new things as well!  

 

First off, the Metropolitan Museum in NYC has closed their Near Eastern galleries for a total facilities redo (which means that once that is complete – whenever that may be, we’ll be going to NYC for a visit!!)  They have, in the meantime, loaned 10 pieces to the Louvre for display until such time as their own facility is ready to receive them.  Very exciting!  Additionally, there was a totally new exhibition of artifacts from Carthage, where we’re heading next week!  It turns out that the Louvre holds the largest collection of antiquities and artifacts from Carthage outside of Tunisia, and they (finally) got around to studying and cataloging it in 2015.  They are now beginning to display pieces of the collection, some of which I will include below.  At any rate, my first real interest in ancient history came about by seeing Punic (Phoenician) writing at the Institute of the Arab World in Paris quite a few years ago – and we’ve been looking at Near Eastern antiquities ever since!  At any rate, I was excited!

 

Golden collar

Lion foundation pieces from the Met

Oldest piece in Louvre; over 7,000 yrs. from Jordan

Loved the Eiffel Tower in the background!

One of my favorite Mesopotamia lions!

Priest Gudea

Ancient calendar stone

Narim-Sin's Victory Stelle

Pieces from Punic tophet (necropolis)

Note Punic writing!

Can't wait to get to Carthage!

I spent a couple of hours wandering through the Near East exhibits – places, obviously, that we will never be able to visit in person but wish we could!  Enjoyed it immensely!  Finally wore out and headed back downstairs for a quick Coke break, as I watched the people seemingly pour in the museum!  SO surprised, really!  Years ago (2006 to be exact) when R and I spent a month in Paris before following the Tour de France, we’d visit the Louvre on Thursday evenings, and there would be NOBODY there!  Whew!  This was a mob scene!  

 

I collected my coat and camera bag and headed back out through the Carousel to catch the bus back to the hotel.  And wow, was that a surprise!  Where I had just walked right up to the securities entrance at 5:25 pm, now the line was incredibly long!  If you’re familiar with the Carousel, the line went all the way back to the escalators leading into the building, turned the corner, and went all the way down to the parking garage!  It’s going to take those people at least an hour if not longer to get in!  And it was already approaching 7:30!  Oh well!  They’re open until 10 pm!

 

I caught the 21 bus at the stop on Avenue de l’Opera and soon was crossing the Seine and heading up St. Michel.  The problem was that the Luxembourg stop (where I wanted to get off!) was “X”ed off on the route!  So, I got off on the stop before, Les Ecoles.  Walked 20 feet to the 21/27 bus stop and a moment later, the reliable 27 pulled up, which did stop at Luxembourg.  It turns out that because of road construction the 21’s route has been diverted until the end of November.  Definitely good to know!  All is well heading toward the Seine; just the diversion heading back.  Stopped at the market across the street to pick up pretzels for R and some cookies for me, and we are definitely in for the night!!  Whew!  Lovely day!  So, until tomorrow!

m

xxx